The San Blas Islands

For the past 5 days, our lives on the mainland quickly became a distant memory. The trivialities of day to day living that you usually concern yourself with didn't matter anymore - the time, your plans for the day, or the WiFi password. We were out at sea on La Gitanita, a small sailboat which, along with the 15 passengers onboard, gently meandered it's way through the paradisal islands of San Blas before heading to Colombia.

After spending most of the morning on a Jeep, I, along with hordes of other backpackers arrived in Port Carti, where speedboats were on standby to take us to our respective sailing boats. After I'd made it on to La Gitanita (little sister of the catamaran El Gitano del Mar, which was making the same journey), it became clear quite quickly that we had a good group, which is always important when spending so much time together with strangers, especially when you're confined to such a small space. However, the old saying of "there's one dickhead in every group" was about to reaffirm it's cliché status as we found out there was one more passenger still to join us.

The first two days were spent in and around the San Blas islands. There's no other way to describe them than paradise. Coconut Tree filled islands dotted the deepest of blue waters around us, which we hopped to and from and used as a base to swim, snorkel, or just relax in the water with a beer. Kuna people (indigenous people of Panama and Colombia, who inhabit many of the San Blas islands) came by our boats during the day, offering freshly caught fish, lobster, and octopus which we cooked up for dinner, and in the evenings we anchored down and caught a dingy to one of many party islands.

It was on the second night that the last passenger to join us emerged as the group dickhead, spiralling into a drug and booze fuelled craze which resulted in him being evicted from the boat and sent back to Panama. As he abused and threatened the rest of the group, and finally proceeded to cry, it became obvious the drugs were the least of his problems in life.

Following that fiasco, our captain Jonathan made up for it by offering us an extra night anchored in the San Blas Islands, for us to relax and get a good nights rest before beginning the journey to Colombia. As there was no running water on board, we had to resort to pirate showers (jumping in the ocean), and using a manual pump toilet. Couple these conditions with a group of 14 people sleeping in an overheated cabin for 2 days and you can imagine how fresh we felt when we finally arrived in Cartagena.

Our living quarters, to be shared by 2 people and conveniently located next to the engine

The journey there was relatively smooth sailing (pun intended), we encountered no problems and had the sun on our back the entire time. It became difficult to tell whether I was tanning, already tanned, or just accustomed to seeing my skin burnt, but I did manage to avoid getting sea sick. Packs of dolphins drew us out from a slumber a number of times to put on a show, as did the odd cargo ship or oil tanker in the distant horizon, but for the most part we were the only ones out there, with nothing else in sight. It's amazing how much you slow down in situations like this, with nothing to bother you or interrupt your thoughts. It makes you realise how distracted you become when you're constantly surrounded by TVs, phones and radios. 

Having completely recharged, I won't lie, it was nice to see land again. The view of Cartagena was spectacular as we celebrated, pulling into the harbour and looking back on what was by far the most incredible, relaxing, and easiest border crossing I've ever completed. The best of all rewards was waiting for us on land - a nice shower, some air conditioning and a decent meal out together with the crew and passengers of La Gitanita.

Celebrating our arrival in Cartagena

Panama City, Panama

I perhaps wrongly presumed it would be a smooth travel day, flying from Managua to Miami to Panama, however it probably wasn't any better than my travels on the chicken buses in Nicaragua. Customs and Immigration checks in the USA during my layover were a mess, as they always seem to be at big ariports in that country. And on the flight from Miami to Panama we were caught in a split second pocket of turbulence where for a moment it felt like we were about to go down. But we made it, and following a debate with a taxi driver over the price of a cab to my hostel (frustratingly this is becoming a common occurrence where metered taxis don't seem to exist around Central America), I slumped into my hostel bed at around 11pm.

A couple of days here was enough time for a decent mix between some sightseeing, relaxing, and even managing to squeeze in a workout. On Friday I hopped on the Metro towards Casco Viejo, where on the way I stopped off at the Mercado de Mariscos to sample some fresh Ceviche. Delicious and cheap, yet since I've left Peru it has become clear nothing will ever top the Ceviche I enjoyed in Lima.

Casco Viejo (Old Town in English) is very different from the rest of Panama City. Whereas the surrounds of my hostel is filled with businesses, high rise buildings and apartments, Casco Viejo feels like a purpose built colonial area for tourists. It is beautiful however, and upon entering I immediately regretted my choice to stay at a hostel outside of the old town. I visited the Panama Canal museum, then hunted down a particular cafe recommended on a blog I found online, which serves one of the most popular variety's of coffee in the world - Geisha. Geisha coffee is one of the most premium and expensive coffees in the world and can be sold for up to $170 a pound. Panama is one of the top producers of this special blend of coffee, and just one cup will set you back around US$9.

On Saturday I visited the famous Panama Canal. In the entry line I got chatting to Iraisís, a girl from Venezuela who was also visiting Panama. It was a good thing I had someone to talk to as there wasn't a boat due to pass through the canal for another 3 hours after we arrived. Only there was one problem, she barely spoke a word of English, and my Spanish doesn't extend much further than the basics of conversation.

Ira and I at the Panama Canal

After staying to see a few small, and one incredibly huge boat pass through the canal, Ira and I headed back to Albrook Mall for a late lunch. It must've been a strange site to others in the food court - seeing two people having an extended conversation almost entirely via Google Translate, although the food court also contained a full size carousel you'd see at a fair ground, so maybe our conversation wasn't the strangest thing there.

The mammoth Dalian Highway passes through the Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal

This morning I went for a run along Cinta Costera, a beautiful long stretch of waterfront park where many people run, bike, walk or just sit on a bench and people watch, and after almost passing out under the intense Panama heat and humidity, I cooled off in the hostel pool. I went back to the local mall to buy a few things in preparation for my boat ride through the San Blas islands tomorrow (taking me to Colombia), then hunted down another cafe serving the Geisha coffee. It's a good thing I'm leaving tomorrow as I can see this coffee quickly making a considerable dent in my daily budget. Yet as I sat back in my chair, feeling no remorse at the exorbitant amount of money I'd spent on only 2 coffees this day, I felt somewhat proud of my tenuous grasp of Spanish that had made my conversation with Iraisís all the more difficult - for it also allows me to sit in a cafe full of people, and yet be completely unaware of the conversations unfolding around me, in my own bubble of quietness amongst the numerous voices competing for my attention.

One of a few Geisha coffee's enjoyed whilst in Panama City