Santiago, Chile
My year on the road had almost come to an end, and the final stop was to be in Santiago, Chile. Besides the exorbitant prices (compared to the rest of South America), it was a great place to end the trip. A well developed, clean, accessible city with temperatures lingering around 30 degrees all week, a superb hostel, and most importantly, great company.
On Sunday afternoon I met up with Constanza, a girl I got chatting to on Couchsurfing. We went to the nearby Parque Arauco with some of her friends from the United States, and spent the evening enjoying the sunset over a picnic and some beers, gazing at the impressively large moon hanging low over the horizon.
The next day over breakfast I made friends with a few Aussies and Brits, and we spent the afternoon on the city walking tour. We learned about the infamous Salvador and Pinochet governments of Chile's past, but perhaps the most interesting story for me was that of Chile's dog culture. With so many stray dogs to be seen all over the city, our guide explained why they looked perfectly groomed and healthy. It turns out a lot of people in Santiago will care for and feed the dogs, some even going to the trouble of giving them the required vaccines and neutering them. They get enjoyment out of sitting in the park and being able to enjoy the company of a dog for a while, without having to take them home and pick up their poo.
The dogs there really are a different breed (pun intended) however. They look both ways before crossing the street, or sometimes even wait for the green man to light up before walking. They walk around with a focussed look on their face, as if they legitimately have an appointment to make, and I even heard stories of them taking buses to other neighbourhoods.
Another interesting facet of Santiago culture we learned about was the "Coffee with Legs" phenomenon. At some point in the past, someone decided that more men would come to coffee shops if there were girls in short skirts serving them. So, a bunch of these sexy coffee shops sprung up over the city, some even going to the extent of being a strip club, with a side of coffee. Of course, being a group of young boys, we made a beeline for one of these places as soon as the tour ended.
We walked back to the dodgy looking establishment that was pointed out to us during the tour, complete with black tinted windows and a small neon sign showing "Cafe". We walked in and immediately stood out as the overexcited gringos, and sat down for one of the most interesting, and surprisingly decent coffees I'd had in a long time.
With the Aussies and Brits leaving the next day, it was time to find a new gang. So on Wednesday I went out with two Americans to Cerro Santa Lucía to get a nice view of the city. Afterwards we walked around the Bellas Artes neighbourhood, sampling a few delicious empañadas, and then visited the fish markets. In the evening we went to the upscale wine bar Bocanáriz, and proceeded to down a bunch of incredible Chilean wines. Luckily, one of the Americans was in Santiago to progress his career as a Somelier, so we were guided by someone who knew what he was tasting.
On Thursday I hiked up Cerro San Cristobal, to get an even better view of the city, stopping by the Zoo halfway up the mountain. On the way down I popped in to La Chascona, an intriguingly designed house built by famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, for one of his many mistresses.
The next day I went shopping with Jessica, a girl from Buenos Aires who was staying in my dorm at the hostel, and made good use out of my credit card, replacing many of the clothes that had over the past 12 months become increasingly dirty, small and worn out. We had an ice cream at Emporio La Rosa, voted by one website as one of the best 25 ice cream shops in the world, and spent the afternoon in Parque Arauco taking in the beautiful weather.
As I was enjoying Santiago so much, I only had time to do a day trip of Valparaíso and Viña del Mar. I'd definitely have stayed longer if I had the time, but I already had plans for the next day.
Funnily enough, I have a relative who lives in Santiago, and so a couple of days earlier I got in contact with them. They invited me over for a barbeque, and some delicious Chilean beer and wine. It was a bit strange to be in the heart of Santiago, and having a barbecue and a chat with 3 strong Scottish accents, but it was a great way to end the weekend and my time in Santiago.
On the way back, I stopped by Paruqe Arauco once more to enjoy the final sunset of my trip, and briefly reflect on the year that had been. There wasn't one prominent feeling or emotion at the front of my mind, it was more like there were dozens of them floating around, cancelling the other one out. I was sad that it was over, happy that I was going home, dying to see my family and friends again, yet devastated that some genuinely special people I'd met I will probably never see again. I was completely exhausted from the entire trip, yet excited for the next one. I was upset that some of the most incredible experiences of my life were over, but glad the bad ones were too. Having got nowhere on deciding which feeling would win out over the others, I made my way back to the hostel and begun to pack my bag. That was one thing I certainly wouldn't miss doing for a while.