Unfortunately, the only way out of San Agustin was back out through the horrible road I came in on. This meant another 5 or so hours on the bus, after which I didn't dream of spending the night on another bus to Ipiales, so spent another night back in Popayán.

I was back at the bus station early the next morning, and again spent the whole day on a bus to Ipiales. Thinking I'd be safe in shorts and a t-shirt during a day bus, I was unpleasantly surprised to find the air conditioning on full blast. I grew colder and colder as the trip wore on, and finally arrived in Ipiales in the early evening. To make matters worse it was freezing in Ipiales when I got off the bus, and I couldn't stop myself shivering as I waited for my bag. I picked the first hotel I saw, which was conveniently located across the road from the bus station, and booked a room for the night.

Hotel Metropol was everything you'd expect out of a hotel located across the road from a bus terminal. It seemed like the place you'd go if you'd had an argument with your wife and got kicked out of the house. The red neon sign out the front flashing 'agua caliente' got my hopes up, only to be torn straight down as I hopped under the shower - a metal pipe protruding from the wall - to receive one thick stream of lukewarm water.

Yet, I spent the night here in order to see the spectacular Las Lajas Sanctuary. And it was worth it.